Gonset GSB-101 (1/3) > >> Doug Coffman: How can I interface a GSB-101 with a solid state transceiver? The Gonset manual shows the -100 bias for turning off the tubes during receive and a 110VAC line for switching the transmit / receive relay so the receiver gets cut out during transmit. Steve Katz: The GSB-101 gets its cutoff bias from. This manual is provided FREE OF CHARGE from the 'BoatAnchor Manual Archive' as a service to the Boatanchor community. It was uploaded by someone who wanted to help. GONSET AND VHF OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS POWER AMPLIFIER JUN 30.

[] [] To Amp or Not to Amp from Don Keith, N4KC on January 4, 2018 Website: To Amp or Not to Amp By Don Keith, N4KC ©2017 by Don Keith Since I write extensively about our wonderful hobby of amateur radio, including several best-selling books, I often get questions from folks—newcomers and old-timers alike—asking about setting up their stations, antenna recommendations, modes of operation and more. One of the most common queries is whether or not it is worth it to add an outboard amplifier to the station.

(“Outboard” because technically most of our transceivers today have a final output amplifier contained within.) My answer: “Man, are you asking the wrong guy!” See, I was first licensed in 1961 when John F. Kennedy was president and Roy Orbison and Del Shannon had the top songs on the radio. But I did not add an accessory amplifier until almost fifty years later. Even then, I deliberately delayed my purchase because of a weird personal challenge: I vowed to work and confirm more than 250 DXCC entities with 100 watts or less and simple wire antennas. Granted, I began this effort in 2005 when I became active again after a mostly inactive decade. But the truth is, I did just fine all those years before with my various power levels ranging from QRP to a powerful, pulsating 100 watts PEP. Though I often wished for more oomph in an abundance of rowdy pile-ups, I had plenty of reasons (or excuses) to avoid an amp for all those amp-less years.

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And I did get my 250 countries before adding a hex beam and an amplifier. Even then, it took a special cause to push me over the kicker-edge.

When a local ham passed away, I decided to help the widow by purchasing his Ameritron AL-811 amplifier. I almost felt guilty, leaving abandoned the legion of non-boostered operators. But not much.

Now, does that half a century of procrastination mean I am vehemently anti-amp? I had perfectly good reasons—just as many of those who ask my opinion do—about whether or not to add “shoes” to my station. Among those are: - The cost. Today’s solid-state amplifiers are great, reliable, quiet, convenient and much more, but they are not cheap. “Hollow state” (tube-type) kickers have not really escalated much in price unless they use exotic final tubes or come equipped with lots of added features, but the cost-per-watt can vary considerably and be at least as much as a decent transceiver. And for big amps much, much more. - Wiring for 220 Volts.

Few of us, including your humble author, are skilled in the art of house wiring to code. Besides, I’m scared of electricity.

- Desk space. Now that we absolutely must have a computer, keyboard, mouse, multiple power supplies, antenna matchbox, keyer paddles, external speakers, digital interface, VHF/UHF rig, and more on our operating desks, space for another big box is simply not there. - Antennas and accessories that can handle that extra glorious output would be necessary. A friend of mine’s wife walked into his shack the day he began using his new amp and calmly asked him, “Did you know you have started a fire in that hickory tree out back?” - Knob twisting.

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For those blessed with an older transceiver, a manual antenna matchbox, and a tube-type amp, simply tuning up to make a call is not simple at all! An op needs six hands, half a dozen eyes, and the stamina of an Olympic athlete. - Connecting to the radio.